Shangani, Stone TownNine rooms · one roof · a carved doorFrom $160 a night
A house of lime and light.
Nine rooms behind a carved teak door, three storeys of hand-mixed limewash, and a roof that faces the sunset over the Zanzibar channel. Breakfast up there is included.
Fig. 1The front door: teak, brass studs and a lintel carved with frankincense vines. It has opened onto the same lane for more than a century.
01 · The roomsNine rooms, four kinds
Rooms & suite from $160
Thick walls, high ceilings, cool all afternoon.
Every room has a ceiling fan, a rain shower, Egyptian-cotton sheets and a mosquito net worth sleeping under. Rates are per room per night, breakfast for two on the roof included.
No. 1
Chumvi · salt
Chumvi Room × 2
Our quietest rooms open onto the inner courtyard. In the morning the coloured-glass fanlight throws red and blue across the bed; at night you hear nothing but the fan.
Tall shutters open onto a little iron balcony over the lane, level with the minaret next door. The call to prayer drifts in at dawn; most guests end up loving it.
Second floor, west-facing. Fold back the louvred doors and the channel is there, with dhows crossing it. Quiet air-conditioning for the hot months, and the best sunsets below the roof.
The whole top front of the house, behind the carved balcony you see from the lane. A Zanzibari four-poster, a sitting room with a daybed, and a private stair to the roof.
Extra guest $40 a night, breakfast included.Children of all ages welcome; under 4s free.Government levy charged at cost at check-out.
02 · The roof open to non-residents
Dinner, as the sun goes into the sea.
Sunset in Stone Town today 18:14
Four storeys up, above the tin roofs and minarets, the kitchen cooks over charcoal and the tables face west. Breakfast is slow and long; dinner starts with the light changing over the channel.
Our cook, raised in Shangani, keeps the menu short and the fish caught that morning. No alcohol is served on the roof out of respect for the neighbours; fresh juices, spiced tea and a tamarind soda are.
Breakfast07:00–10:30
SundownerFrom 17:30
Dinner19:00–22:00
Over coalsThe morning's catchMishkakiPrawns, lime, pili pili
Slow-cooked with tomato, clove and lime, coconut rice
Kingfish over charcoal$17
Pili pili, lime, kachumbari and chapati from the pan
Prawn mishkaki$19
Skewered, tamarind-glazed, with grilled cassava
Kashata & spiced coffee$5
Coconut and peanut brittle, cardamom coffee from the brass pot
Vegetarian on request · Tables for non-residents by booking · Cash or card
03 · The house1890s to now
Our story a modest one
Coral stone, lime and five coats of patience.
The house was built in the 1890s for a family of clove traders: coral-rag walls half a metre thick, mangrove-pole ceilings, and a carved door facing the lane. By the 1980s it had become six flats and a tailor's workshop, and the plaster was falling off in sheets.
In 2021 our two families bought it and spent three years putting it back. Local masons slaked and aged the lime on site, the old way, and laid it on in five hand-trowelled coats. We kept the door, the teak beams and the coloured fanlights. We added plumbing, fans and a kitchen on the roof. Nine rooms opened in 2024.
“Lime breathes. On the hottest afternoon the walls are still cool to the hand.”Our head mason, on why we never used cement
1890sBuilt for a clove-trading family
1980sSix flats and a tailor's shop
2021Three years of restoring, in lime, by hand
2024Nine rooms open
RoofRestaurant & breakfast
2nd floorBahari rooms, Baraza Suite
1st floorChumvi & Mnara rooms
GroundCourtyard & front door
Fig. 3
The courtyard door, kept as we found it: teak planks, iron studs and a centre post carved like a chain.
A Stone Town family built its door first; it was the measure of the house behind it. Ours took a carpenter from Kiponda two months to mend, with no new wood showing.
04 · Stone Town on footTimes from our door
Neighbourhood guide no car needed
Everything worth seeing is a short walk away.
Stone Town's lanes are too narrow for cars, which is the point. These are the walks we send guests on, timed at an unhurried pace from the front door.
Forodhani Gardens 4 min
The waterfront park. From sunset the night market lights up: Zanzibar pizza, octopus skewers, sugarcane juice pressed while you wait.
The Old Fort 6 min
Ngome Kongwe, built by the Omanis around 1700. Craft stalls inside and an open-air amphitheatre that hosts music in the evenings.
Jaws Corner 10 min
A small square where the old men of Stone Town drink bitter coffee on the stone benches and argue about football. Sit; someone will pour you a cup.
The Old Dispensary 12 min
An 1890s pharmacy on the harbour road, all carved green balconies and a courtyard that looks like a wedding cake. Now a cultural centre.
Darajani Market 15 min
Spices, fruit and the fish hall, where the morning's tuna and kingfish come in. Go before ten, with small notes and an empty bag.
Christ Church & the slave market memorial 14 min
Built over the site of the last open slave market in East Africa. The exhibition beneath is hard and essential; allow an hour.
Shangani beach 2 min
Where the boys play football and the dhows come in at dusk. The swimming is better on a trip out to the sandbank.
Chokaa House, Shangani · hover or tap a place to trace the walk
05 · ExperiencesBooked at the desk
Out of the old town with people we trust
Spice, sail and a few very old tortoises.
We use the same guides and boat crews every week and pay them properly. Prices are per person and include transfers from the house.
Half day · 08:30
Spice farm morning
Taste cloves, cinnamon bark and fresh nutmeg off the tree on a family farm at Kizimbani, then lunch cooked in their kitchen.
$35lunch +$10
2 hours · 17:00
Dhow at sunset
A wooden dhow, a lateen sail and a crew who have sailed this channel all their lives. Fresh fruit and juice on board.
$45private dhow for 6: $220
Half day · 09:00
Prison Island & sandbank
Twenty minutes by boat to Changuu and its giant tortoises, some over a hundred years old, then snorkelling off a sandbank.
$40island entry paid at the jetty
3 hours · 15:00
Cooking on the roof
Shop at Darajani with our cook, then make pilau, coconut fish curry and chapati up on the roof. You eat what you make at sunset.
$452 to 6 guests
06 · Arriving we'll meet you
From the plane or the ferry to our door.
Cars cannot fit down our lane, so the last 150 metres are on foot. Our porter carries the bags; you carry nothing but your hat.
20 minby car · 8 km
From the airport
Abeid Amani Karume International (ZNZ). Our driver waits at arrivals with your name on a card. $25 per car, up to three guests.
2 hfast ferry
From Dar es Salaam
Several sailings a day to Malindi port. Our porter meets you at the gate; it is a 10-minute walk, or 5 minutes by car for $10.
20 minby air
Flying in from the mainland
Short hops from Dar es Salaam, and around an hour from Arusha after safari. We can book them for you.
Booking enquiry answered within a day
Choose a room. We'll do the rest.
Tell us your dates and which room you like. We reply with availability and a final price, and hold the room for two days while you decide.